Race-Track.com Renegade Buildup

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Installment Number three: The glass and chassis are ready.

  Gary places a 1.25 in. pipe under chassis.
Now that you have removed the dashboard, you can easily remove the windshield and the backlite glass. The windshield is safety glass and will not shatter. It does however crack and splinter. You should be sure to wear gloves when removing any glass. Do not use a sledge or hammer to break the glass. You will have such a mess that you will spend hours upon hours digging glass out from just about everywhere. It pays to remove the glass with care. The backlite (rear window) glass will shatter. It is designed to do just that on impact. You should be careful not to pry on the side of the glass when you attempt removal. 
Now remember to save all moldings. They come off easily and the small plastic clips break with a simple twist of a screwdriver. Again be sure not to apply too much pressure on the edge of the glass.  After you have taken off the aluminum strips that surround your
windshield and backlite, place them aside for use much later in your car project. In the picture we show you that these moldings are very helpful in keeping your wind screen(chicken wire) in place. They also will help hold any Lexan plastic wind-
shield that you might want to install(if you are racing asphalt). Either way the old moldings will be very helpful for doing the installation right.
Now for the hard work. You will need some kind of a tool to remove the butel tape and "goo" that holds the glass in place. The inexpensive way is to use piano wire or any steel reinforced wire. Insert the wire through an opening about half way across the glass. Now with someone on the inside for help you simple hold the wire tight and pull it across the face of the glass. Be sure that you do not catch the wire on any molding clips. May I suggest you purchase a tool like the one shown in the picture to the right. The Cornwall Stick is perfect for any cutting job where you need strength and control. This is simply a heavy duty utility knife with an 18 inch handle. Most important when you take on this glass removal... please wear safety glasses! 

     The Cornwall Stick    
 Cornwall makes a very nice tool for the horrible job of removing glass.

No we are not building a "funny car".

The chassis can be lifted up and the frame rolled out from under the passenger compartment. Be sure that you keep the chassis balanced. We had a hell of a time keeping the chassis balanced on the gravel.
Now that you have removed the glass and are looking at a shell it is time to prepare for the chassis removal from the frame. There are 10 mounts that are located on the frame that have large bolts and rubber bushings attached. The bolts are metric on most GM cars. The problem you will face is "rust". If you have a badly rusted body you will most likely have to burn the bolt heads off. The bolt is held in place with a diamond shaped nut that is set into the body using a slot that the nuts lock into when being turned. These slots have tendency to be rusted away. When you turn the bolt you will break the slot and now the bolt simply turns in place. The mounts are located five on each side. Two under the luggage compartment. You must remove the fuel tank if you have not done so. One is located just in front of the rear seat below the quarter window. One forward along side the
front seat just about where the seatbelt floor mounting bolt was located. If you saw the passenger compartment from Page One of the Buildup you will see the locations marked with arrows. The area we showed excessive rust buildup is where the mounts are located. The final mount is accessible from in front of the firewall inside he body boxes below the firewall at the head of the frame rail. These are very important mounts you must have a strong frame mounting  here. This is a vulnerable spot for the car to bend when hit from the front. You should repair any rust damage found at  this section. We will show you how to "beef" this up a little later.
If all the mounts are removed and the chassis is sitting on the frame un-attached you can prepare for lift-off. Jack up the body off the frame and pass 2 - 1 1/4 inch steel pipes between the chassis and the frame. Use these pipes like handles and lift the body off and place it where you can clean up the rust and prepare for the roof cut. Notice where we have marked our Monte. The factory weld is just below this mark, and is strongest point at the roof line. You will re-attach the roof onto the car after roll cage installation.     EOF

Remove the body by lifting up the 1.25 inch pipes and stand them on blocks or framing horses.

   Next Time: We roll the frame inside the garage; clean it and check for square.
Disclaimer: The article here was written as reference for novice builders of the RENEGADE division racer only. 
No guarantee of success is implied. Racing can be a dangerous sport and safety must be the number one priority of any builder.

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© 2002

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